KALALAU VALLEY BEACH, HI
From: richard@West.Sun.COM (Richard M. Mathews)
KALALAU VALLEY BEACH on Kauai has traditionally been mostly nude (at
least sometimes) and very gorgeous. Starting in June, '95, there will
be a live-in "ambassador" who will enforce the rules which include
"no nudity". Reports of how this works out in practice would be
appreciated. It takes 11 miles of grueling hike (typically over 2
days) each way, but it is worth the pain. You can also hike most of
the 11 miles nude (except for hiking boots). At least you could in
the past. For the less ambitious, you can stop after about 2 miles
at Hanakapi'ai; but nudity is not allowed there or on those 2 miles
of trail.
To get to Kalalau, you take the Na Pali (literally, the cliffs) coast
trail from Haena to Kalalau. Na Pali coast is a narrow, undulating
strip of land between the ocean and the cliffs that tower above.
Sometimes the trail is along the water and sometimes it ascends
1000 feet above the ocean. There is a lot of slippery rock and
almost no level ground at all. It dives into several canyons as
it follows the contours, offering opportunities to visit tropical
waterfalls and sample wild guava and mountain apples. Other places,
the trail provides breathtaking views above the water. It ends up
at one of the most idyllic beaches in Hawaii. The trip in and out
follows the same path, unless you opt for a helicopter or boat ride
one way. (Helicopters apparently are not landing there now except
for emergencies, and the boats run from May 15 to September 15.)
Seasoned mainland hikers report being surprised by the degree of
difficulty. It took a distance runner, somewhat experienced backpacker,
and lover of being pushed to the limit about seven and half hours to
walk the 11 miles on the way in with a full pack (supplies for 9 days),
and five hours to walk out. For a motivated hiker, Kalalau is heaven.
This is not only because of its pristine jungle and rugged beauty,
but because the trail is so difficult. Beyond Hanakapi'ai one finds
only other motivated hikers. This is a very pleasant change from the
typical Hawaiian tourist scene.
Permits are necessary for the three campgrounds on the Kalalau trail,
and only five nights out of each 30 day period are allowed. No more
than one night at Hanakoa and Hanakapi'ai at a time. Permits are free
and are available in advance from:
Dept. of Land & Natural Resources
Division of State Parks
P.O. Box 1671
Lihue, HI 96766
(808) 241-3444
Memorial Day to Sept. 15 is high season on the trail. After 9/15
it's no longer legal, due to rough seas, to land boats on the beach
at Kalalau. This restriction seems to significantly reduce use of the
trail, because it's no longer possible to take a boat into Kalalau and
then walk back out, a popular practice. Also, the threat of autumn
rain seems to scare people off.
All that said, if you're reasonably fit and have a sense of adventure,
it is a place you don't want to miss. Consider giving yourselves 2
days to walk in, 2 to stay at Kalalau, and a day or a day & a half to
walk out.
Bring the following: Broken in hiking boots with ankle support, tent
with rain fly, ensolite pad, hiking staff, umbrella or rain gear,
flashlight, bug juice, rucksack, first-aid kit, water bottles, and
food. A sleeping bag is not necessary; a good substitute would be
a cotton sleeping sack such as for Youth Hostels. Expect frequent
rain, maximum temperature of 80 F, minimum temperature of 65 F, and
high humidity.
Drinking water should be treated by boiling, iodine, or filter. Expect
to drink up to a gallon per day because of the heat and humidity. Clean
cuts promptly since infections are common in the tropics. Be wary at
stream fordings, as the water level may rise rapidly. It also lowers
rapidly. If the crossing looks threatening, just wait. When crossing
use the hiking stick as a third leg.
Hanakapi'ai beach is a 90 minute, 2 mile hike from the trailhead. From
there it is 4 miles, 4 to 5 hours, to Hanakoa. From Hanakoa it is 6
miles, 4 to 6 hours, to Kalalau beach.
Weather reports for the area can be found at
| http://www.princeton.edu/cgi-bin/Webweather/ww?city=lih
[This was pieced together from contributions
from many people, but thanks in particular to
Alex.Sobolev (asobolev@emdeng.DaytonOH.NCR.COM)
for collecting much of this information]
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